Kakheti: Telavi, Sighnaghi, wine and monasteries in 2 days

Kakheti lies in eastern Georgia, occupies most of the Alazani Valley and is considered the center of Georgian winemaking. People go from Tbilisi for one day, but it is better to set aside two: the road, the tastings and the monasteries quickly eat up the time. Below is a route with two bases, Telavi and Sighnaghi.

Telavi or Sighnaghi: where to stay

Telavi is the center of the region and a convenient base for trips to wineries, castles and monasteries. The town is small, the center can be covered on foot, and for the surrounding places you need a taxi, a minibus or a hitched ride.

Sighnaghi is the smallest town in Kakheti, built in the 18th century as a citadel on a mountainside. It offers views of the Alazani Valley. Narrow cobbled streets and houses with red tiled roofs have made it popular, and locals call the town a little Italy. The sights of Sighnaghi itself can be seen in half a day, so it is taken as a place to stay overnight and have lunch with a view.

If you need one night, it is logical to choose by purpose: Telavi is more convenient for monasteries and wine tours, Sighnaghi for an evening walk and dinner.

Getting there from Tbilisi

• To Telavi there are two roads: a short mountain one of 96 km and a long lowland one of 143 km via Sighnaghi and Gurjaani. Minibuses from Tbilisi take the long way, with about 2.5 hours on the road.
• To Sighnaghi a minibus from Tbilisi takes about 1 hour 45 minutes.
• By car you can make a loop: to Kakheti via Sighnaghi, back via Telavi.

The transport data comes from Wikivoyage.

What to see in Telavi

• Batonis Tsikhe Fortress. In the 17th and 18th centuries the kings of Kakheti lived here.
• The monument to Erekle II. It appears in the film "Mimino", part of which was shot in Telavi.
• The 800-year-old plane tree in the center of town and Nadikvari Park, a favorite place for local families.
• The Telavi market. It sells vegetables, fruit, sulguni cheese, churchkhela, spices and nuts.

Alaverdi Monastery

Alaverdi is 20 km northwest of Telavi. An 11th-century cathedral, the main cathedral of Kakheti, about 50 meters tall, with 15th-century frescoes preserved inside. It is a working monastery for men with a strict dress code: men need trousers and long sleeves, and women a long skirt, covered shoulders and a covered head. Photography inside is not allowed. Entry is free, and you can get there by car or by minibus from Alazari street, about 30 minutes on the road.

Sighnaghi: walls, views, Bodbe

The main sight is the fortress wall built by King Erekle II in 1762. It is more than 4 kilometers long, with 28 towers and six gates attached to it. You can climb the wall by a fitted staircase and entry is free, and in front of part of the wall there is a path with a view of the town and the valley.

Nearby is St. Nino's Bodbe Monastery. In the evening Sighnaghi is quiet: it is a place for drinking wine and eating in restaurants, not for clubbing.

Wine and tastings

On the outskirts of Telavi stands the winery "Telavi Wine Cellar" (Marani). According to Wikivoyage for 2023, the tour with a tasting lasts one and a half to two hours, costs 12 euros per person, and a group forms from 8 people. Near Telavi are Tsinandali, where the estate of the poet Alexander Chavchavadze and a historic winery have survived, and Gurjaani with the Church of the Dormition.

Where to stay and what it costs

According to Wikivoyage, guesthouses in Telavi started from 14-34 dollars per room, mid-range hotels from 52 to 69 dollars, and hotels with their own winemaking, such as Schuchmann Wines Chateau and Chateau Mere, from 97 and 126 dollars. These are prices from past years, so look for current ones on booking maps.

Fitting Kakheti into a trip around Georgia

Kakheti is a great complement to the city: first Tbilisi, then two days on wine. What to see in the capital and how to get around is described in Tbilisi: where to stay and what to see and Tbilisi: when to go. For the coast open Batumi: areas, beaches and where to stay, and for the west of the country Kutaisi: what to see.

Low-price dates are visible in the HotTrip flight search.

Frequently asked questions

How many days do I need for Kakheti?

One long day is enough for Sighnaghi and a couple of wineries, but two days with an overnight stay in Telavi or Sighnaghi is more comfortable.

How long does it take to get from Tbilisi to Sighnaghi?

About 1 hour 45 minutes by minibus, according to Wikivoyage.

Can I enter Alaverdi in shorts?

No. The monastery has a strict dress code: trousers and long sleeves for men, and a long skirt, covered shoulders and head for women.

How much does a wine tour in Telavi cost?

According to Wikivoyage for 2023, the tour at the Telavi cellar cost 12 euros per person for a group of 8 or more.

When is the best time to go to Kakheti?

Autumn is tied to winemaking, and in spring and autumn it is pleasant to walk in the towns. See more in Tbilisi: when to go.

Cover: photo by Roman Odintsov on Pexels